After their pastrami buvette Maxie Eisen, the three restaurateurs Oskar Melzer, James and David Ardinast took the next step, opening their first fine-dining restaurant Stanley Diamond, named after Maxie Eisen’s notorious Jewish- American mafioso associate from the 20th century and also located in Frankfurt’s Bahnhofsviertel. Culinary references to bygone times characterize the kitchen which is inspired by European classics. Traditional recipes that have steadily disappeared from restaurant menus are revived with a contemporary take to form a diverse and seasonal menu featuring classics such as Leipziger Allerlei, plaice ‘Finkenwerder style’, Osso Bucco, Bouillabaise, Baba au rhum or apricot dumplings. The interior, designed by Paul Bauer in collaboration with the architects Hollin+Radoske and the design company e15, plays with the combination of contrasting materials. A long stone wall made from green Indian marble, a rose-pink concrete flooring and a gleaming copper ceiling are set off against wooden elements and custom made seating. With strong ties to the city, Melzer and the Ardinast brothers combine fine-dining with the rough and vibrant atmosphere of the Bahnhofsviertel.
Root vegetables, Icelandic moss, Scandinavian mountain herbs and dried seaweed join Berlin’s culinary scene with the resturateurs of Grill Royal and Pauly Saal’s newest venture: restaurant and bar dóttir. Inspired by her Scandanavian roots, head chef Victoria Eliasdóttir combines her experience from kitchens in Sao Paulo and Berkeley with Icelandic, Danish and Swedish cuisines and preparation methods, creating dishes with fish from the Baltic Sea, regional vegetables, lamb and unique flavours. Located in the ground floor of a corner building that stood empty for many years in the business district surrounding Friedrichstrasse, dóttir is separated into a bar, dining area and open kitchen – marked by the original plaster walls, freshly installed old wooden floorboards, antique furniture, tailor-made sofas, and, of course, artworks from the owners’ collections – with access to an enchanting hidden courtyard in the summer.
Photos: Stefan Korte
Bringing the authentic dining experiences of Tokyo to Berlin, Zenkichi shies away from typical sushi and teriyaki dishes. Instead, the Japanese brasserie focuses on exquisite, traditional Japanese dishes with modern flair, their specialties ranging from homemade tofu with light dashi sauce and deep fried potato rice cake served with spicy mayonnaise, to black cod Kyoto miso marinade and Berkshire Kakuni, a simmered pork belly in traditional dashi broth with a soft boiled egg. The multi-dimensional experience combines the fresh, seasonal dishes with an equally special Tokyo-style interior. Hidden away in the lower ground floor of a Mitte building, Zenkichi opens with a lounge and sake bar, which leads to a dining area past the reception. Unlike the usual large seating area, the dining space is composed of 35 semi-private booths of varying sizes, equipped with bamboo blinds for extra privacy. The distinct seating concept reflects what owners Motoko Watanabe and Shaul Margulies point to as a Japanese desire to “concentrate on their food and their company.” Further establishing the intimate atmosphere, the dining experience is completed with subdued lighting and organic materials, composed of dark stained wood, bamboo sticks, granite paving and black pebbles.
Photos: © Zenkichi
The products of the Berlin based design company NEW TENDENCY are characterized by conceptual design, clear aesthetics and functional form, as well as the fact that they’re manufactured locally. Whether it is a glass, a coat rack or a jewelry collection, the design company’s credo is continually reflected in its new, interdisciplinary creations – expanding its portfolio of original products and collaborations with select designers. Corresponding to this approach, their newest innovation, the shelf rack CLICK is the result of a collaboration with Danish architect Sigurd Larsen. Furthermore, the latest NEW TENDENCY product range includes the MASA table base, the DECEMBER floor lamp, the HASH coat rack, the META side table and the X CHAIR, the RIEN glass as well as the SID & CHAD vases, next to a new oak version of the SHIFT, which received the Interior Innovation Award 2014.
Photos: Haw-lin | Matthias Schmitt & Michael Ott
Maxie Eisen, a Chicago gangster with German roots, was the organizer of 3 Hebrew associations of food dealers in the 1920s – the Hebrew Master Butchers’ Association, the Master Bakers’ and the Retail Fish Dealers’ Association. He made a name for himself as a mafioso in the food business and was respected in the mob scene due to his cunning, but above all, also due to his close association to Al Capone. Maxie and the rest of the gang would meet for diplomatic treaties late at night at the Hotel Sherman, presumably over charcuterie, fish, magnums of stolen red wine and strong drinks. Building on a mix of Jewish food, the history of Frankfurt’s red-light district and the French sensibility of a buvette, Maxie Eisen, located in the middle of the Bahnhofsviertel, will revive and reinterpret the spirit of those bygone times. Pastrami takes center stage; delicious American beef brisket, traditionally cured using mustard, crushed peppercorns, coriander seeds and garlic. Roast chicken and select charcuterie such as duck rillettes are also on the menu. Matzo ball soup, following a traditional recipe, herring with horseradish and raw onions, home-cooked rosemary french fries and fresh salads act as accompaniments.
Photos: Steve Herud
Specialty tea is still leading a fringe existence on the European continent. But that’s about to change, as P & T sets out from Berlin to spread the word on fine tea in an altogether novel fashion. P & T has made it their mission to make fine teas and tea culture more accessible and rewarding to a broader audience. Nothing like a conventional tea shop, it breaks with the traditional apothecary-like over-the-counter model. Instead, the original presentation system encourages self-directed discovery, sensory experience and dialogue.
Photos by Ludger Paffrath
P & T
Matzoh ball soup, shakshouka, american beef brisket to various patés, homemade desserts and regional jams are the new daily business for Oskar Melzer and Paul Mogg. Serving home-made Jewish American cuisine, Mogg & Melzer Delicatessen brings classic New York food culture to town. Since end of April the deli is opened every day of the week for breakfast, lunch or dinner at the Ehemalige Jüdische Mädchenschule. The food is available to take away or to enjoy indoors sitting on benches made by the Berlin furniture manufacturer Tipla or the Pirkka chairs by the Finnish designer Illmari Tapiovaara.
Photos: Steve Herud
In February 2012, the listed building of the Ehemalige Jüdische Mädchenschule – a former Jewish girls’ school in Auguststrasse in Berlin opened as a space for art and cuisine. Following historically suitable restoration, the building was made available to the public after years of vacancy. The former classrooms and corridors present changing exhibitions by different actors from the art world. Camera Work Contemporary opened a Gallery on the first floor. Michael Fuchs Galerie exhibits works in the former assembly hall on the third floor. He shares the floor with EIGEN + ART Lab, an exhibition format for international artists.
In the former gymnasium, the restaurant Pauly-Saal offers guests regional and seasonal German cuisine during the day and in the evenings – adjoined is the Pauly-Bar. In the private dining rooms, The Kosher Classroom serves three times per week certified kosher cuisine, including a traditional Sabbath dinner. Mogg & Melzer Delicatessen sells homemade pastrami and other meat specialties, as well as products from the Pauly-Saal and The Kosher Classroom – to eat in or to take away.
Photos: Stefan Korte
Berlin’s Auguststraße has a new place to eat and drink – the team behind the Grill Royal opened their new restaurant Pauly Saal in the Jüdische Mädchenschule. The ingredients-based cuisine will be prepared to the highest standards by starred chef Michael Höpfl. It’s about all things braised, sautéed, salted or marinated. Sausages will be made, vegetables pickled, breads baked in wood-fired ovens, pastries prepared onsite. In addition to stews served in cast iron pots, suckling pig from the rotisserie and traditional offal dishes will be on the menu. The former gymnasium of the school was remodeled and furnished according to the owners’ designs. Thus, all materials have been manufactured especially for this project, whether the ceramic tiles from Berlin, the extraordinary Murano chandeliers, or the chairs covered with dark green fabric.
Photos: Stefan Korte
A place to meet friends and enjoy excellent food, there should be steak and fish on the menu, champagne and plenty of space. In the spring of 2007 Stephan Landwehr and Boris Radczun opened Grill Royal, which has been a hot spot in the gastronomic landscape of Berlin ever since.
Photos: Stefan Korte